Ess ts2 installation

It creates a higher boost-pressure at lower engine rpm, thus significantly increasing bottom and mid range torque. Lag time during shifts and on-off throttling are reduced to a minimum and the throttle response is incredible.

The twin screw principle is also highly energy efficient, which contributes to the extreme power and torque output of the ESS TS Series systems. The patented liquid intercooling system consists of 3Xmm Laminova cores integrated into a high strength cast aluminum ESS intake manifold system covering all 6 cylinders resulting in flow-matched air distribution and optimal cylinder balance along with ultra-efficient cooling capacity for up to HP.

The liquid intercooler coolant is pumped via a high capacity marine-grade circulation pump through a high capacity front mount heat exchanger. The system also utilizes a throttle body type butterfly air bypass valve to reduce SC parasitic drag and increase fuel economy during cruising conditions. The overall system efficiency, torque delivery, power production, cooling capacity, and room for higher power stages is considerably higher than that of any competitor.

The Twin Screw supercharger is the only product on the market today to combine both a positive displacement design for maximum low-end torque and highly efficient top-end horsepower output. Also emission levels at high speed and boost are lower than with other turbo and supercharging systems. We need to disconnect the positive crankcase vent PCV drain from the dipstick and cap it off with the ESS-supplied plugged hose.

I found it easier to just remove the dipstick entirely. Follow the dipstick down and find the 13mm bolt on the dipstick itself Photo U. Farther down, there are two hoses attached in clips to the dipstick. Work your hand down there and release them. The PCV drain hose is attached to the dipstick right before it enters the engine crankcase. The disptick is tough to remove, but pull hard straight up and it will pop out.

Remove the 13mm and pull the disptick from the car. It will pop out up of the crankcase. Keep an eye out for the O-ring at the base. It usually comes out with the dipstick, but if not, you need to be sure to get it out of the dipstick hole to reuse it. The microfilter housing sits above the engine against the firewall. Remove the four 4 x T25 Torx screws in the rear of the housing Photo X. They are capture screws and will stay with the housing.

Disconnect the wire channel on the front of the housing by pulling straight up and away from the housing. Let it lay across the engine Photo Y. Release the snaps on this wire channel to get the red thick starter cable out for later. Pull the microfilter housing up and out. Pry the caps out of the engine cover with a flathead screwdriver Photo Z. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two 2 x 10mm screws below and remove the engine cover.

We all know how flammable it is so be extremely careful to keep all heat sources away. Some fuel will be released, so keep some shop towels handy to soak up any excess spill.

Note in the pictures I removed the vacuum rail from the manifold. This is not necessary to install the TS. Unclip the electrical O2 sensor wires and connectors from the silver fuel rail Photo AB. Each injector has a metal clip holding the wiring harness on.

Using a small screwdriver, pop this clip up on each injector. Once all six injectors are free, pull the entire wiring harness housing straight off the injectors Photo AC. There is an extra connector for the VANOS unit at the front of the rail on a pigtail, disconnect this the same was as the injectors.

It can pop off at any time so be ready to control it and soak up any spills. Obviously, again, keep ALL heat sources away. Remove the four 4 x 10mm screws holding the fuel rail down Photo AD. Slide the clips off the heads of each injector holding them into the rail. You can then pull the rail up off the injectors. Remove the stock You will not reuse them.

Check your MAF wires. If you have 5 wires, you have MS45 software. If you have only 3, you have MS This sensor is then snapped into the pre-made hole in the supercharger intake later in the install. If you have MS45, there should be a plug pre-installed in this location. Remove the two 2 x 13mm bolts from the power steering reservoir mount Photo AE. Cover the alternator with a towel you DON'T want power steering fluid in your alternator and remove the tank cap.

Drain the reservoir into a cup and discard this fluid safely. Retain the cap as it will go on the new tank. Select the smaller of the two hoses under the power steering reservoir Photo AF. Clip the clamp with snips and then you can actually pull this hose off by hand. Drain and catch any remaining fluid. Once the tank is drained, remove the other hose as well. Remove the tank from the bracket. Move the bracket to the new ESS aluminum tank. The mounting bracket holes of the bracket go on the opposite side from the hose attachment points on the tank.

Attach both hoses to the new ESS-supplied power steering reservoir which is a damn fine piece of work with a built in machined diffuser in the bottom to eliminate fluid leakage from the cap, excellent! Use a flat-tip pliers to crimp the clamps onto each fitting. One connection is larger than the other and it is obvious which hose goes to which. Clamp both hoses to the tank and set the tank aside in the engine bay Photo AG. It will make a lot more room for this step if you remove the radiator fan.

There are two 2 wiring plugs on the passenger side, 1 x T25 Torx screw above the plugs, and one 1 snap rivet near the overflow tank on the driver's side and the entire fan assembly slides straight up and out. This only applies to manual transmission cars. The automatic has a fan bolted to the water pump.

Press straight down on the tensioner with one palm the small center pulley and you can slip the belt off with the other hand. Pop the dust cover off the main tensioner left of the alternator pulley with a small screwdriver and then put a 8mm hex wrench into the pulley's center bolt Photo AH. I used my jack handle as a leverage bar on the hex wrench, slowly twisting clockwise, to release the belt tension and pull off the main belt. Some cars may have a 16mm bolt inside the pulley instead.

The process is the same. Unbolt the two 2 x 16mm mounting bolts for the alternator using a socket. The upper one holds the upper idler pulley in place, remove the dust cover to get to it Photo AH2. ESS supplies a small pre-assembled idler pulley bracket which already has the spacers zip-tied to it. It will only fit one way around the tensioner larger pulley is the top one.

Remove the zip-ties on the bolts and slide the assembly into the now-empty alternator mounting holes and tighten into place with the supplied bolts and spacers. Cut the zip tie on the upper radiator hose that holds the small harness wire in place.

Using a small screwdriver, unclip both ends of the upper radiator hose. Prepare to catch some coolant with a cup and remove the upper hose. Replace with suppied ESS radiator hose. It will only fit one way Photo AI. Re-ziptie wire harness in place. Also, snip the wire tie on the O2 wiring at the back of the vacuum rail Photo AJ2. Underneath the front of the manifold, slide the fuel purge vent valve off it's rubber mount and allow it to hang free Photo AK.

Disconnect the DISA valve wiring connection. It uses a metal clip just like the fuel injectors. Remove the engine wiring harness bracket from the driver's side of the manifold. It is held in place by two 10mm nuts. One is easy to see and get to Photo AM , the other in not easy to see and underneath the throttle body. You will have to feel for it and remove it easily. Pull the engine wiring away from the manifold for clearance.

Disconnect the wiring harnesses at the throttle body and the ICV above it. There is a support bracket under the manifold that is nearly impossible to see.

It is attached to the engine mount underneath. The easiest way to get to it is to come up from below the car. I did my best to take a picture of it but the angle would not let the flash light it up. Remove this 16mm bolt. There is one right next to it that does not release the manifold, and if you remove it, just replace it afterwards.

There are eleven 11 x 11mm nuts holding the manifold to the head Photo AP. Begin removing these being VERY careful not to drop any. You WILL reuse them. Once the nuts are removed, you can pull the manifold up off the engine a little bit. Make sure you are not getting caught on any wires or hoses.

This is what you will see Photo AS. ESS sent me a photo to illustrate the bend. Remove the plastic box around the engine wiring harness you removed from the manifold. This is true. GT30 are ball bearing turbos and have less resistance to spool.

They also are water and oil cooled. My TS2 now has 65k miles without any issues. Yea that ICV hose can be a pain post installation. Boy, that is a pain to get back in. It really is perfect daily driver setup. The S54 is a thoroughbred screamer built for the track. The two are very different personalities.

Thanks for that. That helps steer me back to my S54 dream :. It helps steer me back to my TS2 dream. The engine bay looks stock.

In fact, it drives just like stock except there is more juice when you lean into the throttle. Very linear power curve. Many have put over 50k miles on them without a single problem. The kit is built with high quality components and customer service has been excellent. I'll update my install notes post once I get the part number. Also, while they dont' include an oil catch can with the kit, they do say that it is a good idea just to ensure you can keep the laminova cores cleaner.

Time to do some shopping for a good affordable catch can kit. I didn't know that. Where did you hear this?? I will add that having driven Steve's ZHP, a supercharger is very addicting. It was no slouch in mid-corners. Turbos that are chosen right are a blast.

I had a t04 maxima that built full boost at 3k and went to 7k. Nothing to worry about. I updated the first post with a section regarding the bolt that secures the new idler pullies through the alternator to the oil filter housing gasket. I had to modify that slightly to keep it from bottoming out. Best kit out there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Best kit out there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk but turbo?! Hey Jon! Yes, that was sweet. Sent from mobile Hey John. How's Cali treating you?

Been awhile man! When are you headed back to east coast? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Hey Derek. Lots of projects planned but will be slow going due to cost.

Just got wheels and suspension but that's it for this year. How are things with you? Hey John. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Excellent thanks. No time soon. Hope all is well. Sent from mobile. I've struggled with that smooth type of hose provided in the latest TS2 kits, it wants to kink so easily. I think I"m going to try to source about a 12 inch section of the ribbed hose they used to provided and splice it in at the top there were its kinking.

I thought about a 90 degree elbow for about 5 seconds when I realized it would make it even harder to fill that circuit with coolant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Doing great! The Zhp will receive a heart transplant sooner or later. Undecided what I want to do and the savings will continue to save while I do so. Sent from Mobile. Ave you looked into tool less AN rubber lines? I used this on my old turbo civic setup and it was awesome. I haven't, do you have a link to this stuff you speak of?

My google-foo seems broken. So I'm backing out of this idea. I've had reports from some folks that the ribbed hose they used in the earlier ESS TS2 kits is prone to deteriorating. Probably why ESS is supplying the newer smooth hose. So now I'm back to trying to find some kind of elbow fitting or something, or just letting it ride. By the way, that mishimoto catch can is a fine unit.

Very well built, I recommend it. I love Google-Fu. They are called Socket-less AN hoses. They use Barb fittings. Surprising, my stock ESS ribbed hoses are in great shape after 65k miles.

They have lived in extreme cold and hot also. Not the place for this conversation but that Civic bay looks a lot like my wife's Kpro engine bay in her prelude. You guys should have a conversation sometime. She was a big time honda girl. Engine swaps, turbo accord, prelude etc. Yea I had whp and it was fun. Hmm, that's good to hear. I think someone mentioned that when there is a slight leak near the end of the hose it causes it to disintegrate or something.

Wish I had some better facts to point to. Something has been nagging me: ESS started by saying we should use Castrol 10w TWS for the twin screw, and now they recommend the vortech V-3 lubricant. But I wondered if that matched what Lysholm recommends, as they are the real manufacturer of the twin screw unit itself.

So I called Lysholm and asked them. They said to ONLY use their special twin screw oil, part number , in their twin screw superchargers. And that its a special synthetic blend intended to be used with the tight tolerances of these supercharger units. No idea who makes it, what it looks like, or if I can source it from anywhere other than vortech the parent company who owns lysholm now. I tried googling it and can find it available through Summit Racing, but that's it, no other info out there.

I have some here that I got from them when I picked up my car from them, I'll take a pic if you want. Sorry about that, hope you can find the right stuff cheaper. Thanks for the pics though! I'll post up when I receive the I saw your other post. Oh no! What happened with the coolant?

Suspected bad seal? No coolant in went in the intake, did it? Sorry to hear. Yeah, coolant was leaking from one or more of the laminova cores, into the intake, down into cylinder 6, causing misfires every time I tried to fill the intercooler with coolant. Pressure tested it and its supposed to hold over 7 psi but only could hold 1. Pulled it apart and saw the ends of the laminova cores are heavily damaged, no wonder the o-rings didn't seal.